Gonçalo P. Rosa 1,2 , Maria Carmo Barreto 1 , Ana M. L. Seca 1,2 and Diana C. G. A. Pinto 2,*
1 University of the Azores, Faculty of Sciences and Technology, Centre for Ecology, Evolution and Environmental Changes (cE3c), Azorean Biodiversity Group & Global Change and Sustainability Institute (CHANGE), 9501-321 Ponta Delgada, Portugal; 该Email地址已收到反垃圾邮件插件保护。要显示它您需要在浏览器中启用JavaScript。 (G.P.R.); 该Email地址已收到反垃圾邮件插件保护。要显示它您需要在浏览器中启用JavaScript。 (M.C.B.); 该Email地址已收到反垃圾邮件插件保护。要显示它您需要在浏览器中启用JavaScript。 (A.M.L.S.)
2 LAQV-REQUIMTE, Department of Chemistry, University of Aveiro, Campus Universitário de Santiago, 3810-193 Aveiro, Portugal
* Correspondence: 该Email地址已收到反垃圾邮件插件保护。要显示它您需要在浏览器中启用JavaScript。
Academic Editor: Charlotte Jacobsen
Received: 26 December 2024
Revised: 3 February 2025
Accepted: 11 February 2025
Published: 14 February 2025
Citation: Rosa, G.P.; Barreto, M.C.; Seca, A.M.L.; Pinto, D.C.G.A. Antiaging Potential of Lipophilic Extracts of Caulerpa prolifera. Mar.
Drugs 2025, 23, 83. https:// doi.org/10.3390/md23020083
Copyright: © 2025 by the authors. Licensee MDPI, Basel, Switzerland.
This article is an open access article distributed under the terms and conditions of the Creative Commons Attribution (CC BY) license
(https://creativecommons.org/ licenses/by/4.0/).
Abstract: The cosmeceutical industry has increasingly turned its attention to marine macroalgae, recognizing their significant bioactive potential as sources of natural compounds for skincare applications. A growing number of products now incorporate extracts or isolated compounds from various macroalgae species. However, many species remain underexplored, highlighting a valuable opportunity for further research. Among these, Caulerpa prolifera (Forsskål) J.V. Lamouroux has emerged as a promising candidate for cosmeceutical applications. This study provides the most comprehensive phytochemical assessment of C. prolifera to date, revealing its potential as a source of bioactive extracts and compounds. The analysis identified key components of its lipophilic profile, predominantly saturated and unsaturated fatty acids, alongside di-(2-ethylhexyl) phthalate—an endocrine disruptor potentially biosynthesized or bioaccumulated by the algae. While the crude extract exhibited moderate tyrosinase inhibitory activity, its overall antioxidant capacity was limited. Fractionation of the extract, however, yielded subfractions with distinct bioactivities linked to changes in chemical composition. Notably, enhanced inhibitory activities against elastase and collagenase were observed in subfractions enriched with 1-octadecanol and only traces of phthalate. Conversely, antioxidant activity diminished with the loss of specific compounds such as β-sitosterol, erucic acid, nervonic acid, and lignoceric acid. This work advances the understanding of the relationship between the chemical composition of C. prolifera and its bioactivities, emphasizing its potential as a source of cosmeceutical ingredients, leading to a more comprehensive valorization of this macroalga.
Keywords: macroalgae; phytochemical profile; cosmeceutical potential
Ana Silva 1,2,† , Cláudia Pinto 3,4,†, Sara Cravo 3,4 , Sandra Mota 5,6 , Liliana Rego 5,6 , Smeera Ratanji 6,7 , Clara Quintas 6,7, Joana Rocha e Silva 8 , Carlos Afonso 3,4 , Maria Elizabeth Tiritan 3,4,9,10 , Honorina Cidade 3,4,10,* , Teresa Cruz 1,2,* and Isabel F. Almeida 5,6
1 Faculty of Pharmacy, University of Coimbra, 3000-548 Coimbra, Portugal; 该Email地址已收到反垃圾邮件插件保护。要显示它您需要在浏览器中启用JavaScript。
2 CIBB—Center for Innovative Biomedicine and Biotechnology/CNC—Center for Neuroscience and Cell Biology, University of Coimbra, 3004-504 Coimbra, Portugal
3 Laboratory of Organic and Pharmaceutical Chemistry, Department of Chemical Sciences, Faculty of Pharmacy, University of Porto, Rua Jorge Viterbo Ferreira 228, 4050-313 Porto, Portugal; 该Email地址已收到反垃圾邮件插件保护。要显示它您需要在浏览器中启用JavaScript。 (C.P.); 该Email地址已收到反垃圾邮件插件保护。要显示它您需要在浏览器中启用JavaScript。 (S.C.); 该Email地址已收到反垃圾邮件插件保护。要显示它您需要在浏览器中启用JavaScript。 (C.A.); 该Email地址已收到反垃圾邮件插件保护。要显示它您需要在浏览器中启用JavaScript。 (M.E.T.)
4 CIIMAR–Interdisciplinary Centre of Marine and Environmental Research, University of Porto, Avenida General Norton de Matos, S/N, 4450-208 Matosinhos, Portugal
5 UCIBIO—Applied Molecular Biosciences Unit, Department of Drug Sciences, Faculty of Pharmacy, University of Porto, R. Jorge Viterbo Ferreira 228, 4050-313 Porto, Portugal; 该Email地址已收到反垃圾邮件插件保护。要显示它您需要在浏览器中启用JavaScript。 (S.M.); 该Email地址已收到反垃圾邮件插件保护。要显示它您需要在浏览器中启用JavaScript。 (L.R.); 该Email地址已收到反垃圾邮件插件保护。要显示它您需要在浏览器中启用JavaScript。 (I.F.A.)
6 Associate Laboratory i4HB—Institute for Health and Bioeconomy, Faculty of Pharmacy, University of Porto, R. Jorge Viterbo Ferreira 228, 4050-313 Porto, Portugal; 该Email地址已收到反垃圾邮件插件保护。要显示它您需要在浏览器中启用JavaScript。 (S.R.); 该Email地址已收到反垃圾邮件插件保护。要显示它您需要在浏览器中启用JavaScript。 (C.Q.)
7 UCIBIO—Applied Molecular Biosciences Unit, Laboratory of Pharmacology, Department of Drug Sciences, Faculty of Pharmacy, University of Porto, R. Jorge Viterbo Ferreira 228, 4050-313 Porto, Portugal
8 Dimas & Silva, Lda. Industry, Rua Central de Goda 345, 4535-167 Mozelos, Portugal; 该Email地址已收到反垃圾邮件插件保护。要显示它您需要在浏览器中启用JavaScript。
9 TOXRUN—Toxicology Research Unit, University Institute of Health Sciences, CESPU, CRL, 4585-116 Gandra, Portugal 10 UNIPRO—Oral Pathology and Rehabilitation Research Unit, University Institute of Health Sciences (CESPU), 4585-116 Gandra, Portugal
* Correspondence: 该Email地址已收到反垃圾邮件插件保护。要显示它您需要在浏览器中启用JavaScript。 (H.C.); 该Email地址已收到反垃圾邮件插件保护。要显示它您需要在浏览器中启用JavaScript。 (T.C.)
† These authors equally contributed to this work.
Academic Editor: Chung-Yi Chen
Received: 18 December 2024
Revised: 11 January 2025
Accepted: 14 January 2025
Published: 17 January 2025
Citation: Silva, A.; Pinto, C.; Cravo, S.; Mota, S.; Rego, L.; Ratanji, S.; Quintas, C.; Silva, J.R.e.; Afonso, C.; Tiritan, M.E.; et al. Sustainable Skincare Innovation: Cork Powder
Extracts as Active Ingredients for Skin Aging. Pharmaceuticals 2025, 18, 121.
https://doi.org/10.3390/ ph18010121
Copyright: © 2025 by the authors. Licensee MDPI, Basel, Switzerland. This article is an open access article distributed under the terms and conditions of the Creative Commons Attribution (CC BY) license
(https://creativecommons.org/ licenses/by/4.0/)
Abstract: Background: An emerging practice within the concept of circular beauty involves the upcycling of agro-industrial by-products. Cork processing, for instance, yields byproducts like cork powder, which presents an opportunity to create value-added cosmetic ingredients. Building upon our previous research, demonstrating the antioxidant potential of hydroalcoholic extracts derived from two distinct cork powders (P0 and P1), in this work, aqueous extracts were prepared and analyzed. The safety and bioactivities of the newly obtained aqueous extracts, as well as the 30% ethanol extracts, previously reported to be the most promising for skin application, were also evaluated.
Methods: Aqueous extracts were obtained from cork powders (P0 and P1) and the identification and quantification of some polyphenols was achieved by liquid chromatography (LC). Antioxidant potential was screened by DPPH method and the bioactivity and safety of extracts were further explored using cell-based assays.
Results: All extracts exhibited a reduction in age-related markers, including senescence-associated beta-galactosidase (SA-β-gal) activity. Additionally, they demonstrated a pronounced anti-inflammatory effect by suppressing the production of several pro-inflammatory mediators in macrophages upon lipopolysaccharide stimulation. Moreover, the extracts upregulated genes and proteins associated with antioxidant activity, such as heme oxygenase 1. The aqueous extract from P1 powder was especially active in reducing pro-inflammatory mediators, namely the Nos2 gene, inducible nitric oxide protein levels, and nitric oxide production. Moreover, it did not induce skin irritation, as assessed by the EpiSkin test, in compliance with the OECD Test Guidelines.
Conclusions: Overall, our findings underscore the potential of aqueous extracts derived from cork waste streams to mitigate various hallmarks of skin aging, including senescence and inflammaging, and their suitability for incorporation into cosmetics formulations. These results warrant further exploration for their application in the pharmaceutical and cosmetic industries and could foster a sustainable and circular bioeconomy.
Keywords: cosmetics; cork extracts; skin aging; sustainability; senescence; inflammaging; circular economy
Authors
Evan S. Darwin
Jose A. Jaller
Vita Boyar
Sheena A. Gagnier
Holly Kirkland-Kyhn
Oleg Teleten
Lia van Rijswijk
Dot Weir
伤口世界平台生态圈,以“关爱人间所有伤口患者”为愿景,连接、整合和拓展线上和线下的管理慢性伤口的资源,倡导远程、就近和居家管理慢性伤口,解决伤口专家的碎片化时间的价值创造、诊疗经验的裂变复制、和患者的就近、居家和低成本管理慢性伤口的问题。
2019广东省医疗行业协会伤口管理分会年会
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