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Sustainable Skincare Innovation: Cork Powder Extracts as Active Ingredients for Skin Aging 2025-04-11 00:00

Ana Silva 1,2,† , Cláudia Pinto 3,4,†, Sara Cravo 3,4 , Sandra Mota 5,6 , Liliana Rego 5,6 , Smeera Ratanji 6,7 , Clara Quintas 6,7, Joana Rocha e Silva 8 , Carlos Afonso 3,4 , Maria Elizabeth Tiritan 3,4,9,10 , Honorina Cidade 3,4,10,* , Teresa Cruz 1,2,* and Isabel F. Almeida 5,6

1 Faculty of Pharmacy, University of Coimbra, 3000-548 Coimbra, Portugal; 该Email地址已收到反垃圾邮件插件保护。要显示它您需要在浏览器中启用JavaScript。

2 CIBB—Center for Innovative Biomedicine and Biotechnology/CNC—Center for Neuroscience and Cell Biology, University of Coimbra, 3004-504 Coimbra, Portugal

3 Laboratory of Organic and Pharmaceutical Chemistry, Department of Chemical Sciences, Faculty of Pharmacy, University of Porto, Rua Jorge Viterbo Ferreira 228, 4050-313 Porto, Portugal; 该Email地址已收到反垃圾邮件插件保护。要显示它您需要在浏览器中启用JavaScript。 (C.P.); 该Email地址已收到反垃圾邮件插件保护。要显示它您需要在浏览器中启用JavaScript。 (S.C.); 该Email地址已收到反垃圾邮件插件保护。要显示它您需要在浏览器中启用JavaScript。 (C.A.); 该Email地址已收到反垃圾邮件插件保护。要显示它您需要在浏览器中启用JavaScript。 (M.E.T.)

4 CIIMAR–Interdisciplinary Centre of Marine and Environmental Research, University of Porto, Avenida General Norton de Matos, S/N, 4450-208 Matosinhos, Portugal

5 UCIBIO—Applied Molecular Biosciences Unit, Department of Drug Sciences, Faculty of Pharmacy, University of Porto, R. Jorge Viterbo Ferreira 228, 4050-313 Porto, Portugal; 该Email地址已收到反垃圾邮件插件保护。要显示它您需要在浏览器中启用JavaScript。 (S.M.); 该Email地址已收到反垃圾邮件插件保护。要显示它您需要在浏览器中启用JavaScript。 (L.R.); 该Email地址已收到反垃圾邮件插件保护。要显示它您需要在浏览器中启用JavaScript。 (I.F.A.)

6 Associate Laboratory i4HB—Institute for Health and Bioeconomy, Faculty of Pharmacy, University of Porto, R. Jorge Viterbo Ferreira 228, 4050-313 Porto, Portugal; 该Email地址已收到反垃圾邮件插件保护。要显示它您需要在浏览器中启用JavaScript。 (S.R.); 该Email地址已收到反垃圾邮件插件保护。要显示它您需要在浏览器中启用JavaScript。 (C.Q.)

7 UCIBIO—Applied Molecular Biosciences Unit, Laboratory of Pharmacology, Department of Drug Sciences, Faculty of Pharmacy, University of Porto, R. Jorge Viterbo Ferreira 228, 4050-313 Porto, Portugal

8 Dimas & Silva, Lda. Industry, Rua Central de Goda 345, 4535-167 Mozelos, Portugal; 该Email地址已收到反垃圾邮件插件保护。要显示它您需要在浏览器中启用JavaScript。

9 TOXRUN—Toxicology Research Unit, University Institute of Health Sciences, CESPU, CRL, 4585-116 Gandra, Portugal 10 UNIPRO—Oral Pathology and Rehabilitation Research Unit, University Institute of Health Sciences (CESPU), 4585-116 Gandra, Portugal

* Correspondence: 该Email地址已收到反垃圾邮件插件保护。要显示它您需要在浏览器中启用JavaScript。 (H.C.); 该Email地址已收到反垃圾邮件插件保护。要显示它您需要在浏览器中启用JavaScript。 (T.C.)

† These authors equally contributed to this work.

Academic Editor: Chung-Yi Chen

Received: 18 December 2024

Revised: 11 January 2025

Accepted: 14 January 2025

Published: 17 January 2025

Citation: Silva, A.; Pinto, C.; Cravo, S.; Mota, S.; Rego, L.; Ratanji, S.; Quintas, C.; Silva, J.R.e.; Afonso, C.; Tiritan, M.E.; et al. Sustainable Skincare Innovation: Cork Powder

Extracts as Active Ingredients for Skin Aging. Pharmaceuticals 2025, 18, 121.

https://doi.org/10.3390/ ph18010121

Copyright: © 2025 by the authors. Licensee MDPI, Basel, Switzerland. This article is an open access article distributed under the terms and conditions of the Creative Commons Attribution (CC BY) license

(https://creativecommons.org/ licenses/by/4.0/)

Abstract: Background: An emerging practice within the concept of circular beauty involves the upcycling of agro-industrial by-products. Cork processing, for instance, yields byproducts like cork powder, which presents an opportunity to create value-added cosmetic ingredients. Building upon our previous research, demonstrating the antioxidant potential of hydroalcoholic extracts derived from two distinct cork powders (P0 and P1), in this work, aqueous extracts were prepared and analyzed. The safety and bioactivities of the newly obtained aqueous extracts, as well as the 30% ethanol extracts, previously reported to be the most promising for skin application, were also evaluated.

Methods: Aqueous extracts were obtained from cork powders (P0 and P1) and the identification and quantification of some polyphenols was achieved by liquid chromatography (LC). Antioxidant potential was screened by DPPH method and the bioactivity and safety of extracts were further explored using cell-based assays.

Results: All extracts exhibited a reduction in age-related markers, including senescence-associated beta-galactosidase (SA-β-gal) activity. Additionally, they demonstrated a pronounced anti-inflammatory effect by suppressing the production of several pro-inflammatory mediators in macrophages upon lipopolysaccharide stimulation. Moreover, the extracts upregulated genes and proteins associated with antioxidant activity, such as heme oxygenase 1. The aqueous extract from P1 powder was especially active in reducing pro-inflammatory mediators, namely the Nos2 gene, inducible nitric oxide protein levels, and nitric oxide production. Moreover, it did not induce skin irritation, as assessed by the EpiSkin test, in compliance with the OECD Test Guidelines.

Conclusions: Overall, our findings underscore the potential of aqueous extracts derived from cork waste streams to mitigate various hallmarks of skin aging, including senescence and inflammaging, and their suitability for incorporation into cosmetics formulations. These results warrant further exploration for their application in the pharmaceutical and cosmetic industries and could foster a sustainable and circular bioeconomy.

Keywords: cosmetics; cork extracts; skin aging; sustainability; senescence; inflammaging; circular economy
Nicotinamide: A Multifaceted Molecule in Skin Health and Beyond 2025-04-10 00:00

Lara Camillo, Elisa Zavattaro and Paola Savoia *

Department of Health Science, Università del Piemonte Orientale, 28100 Novara, Italy;

该Email地址已收到反垃圾邮件插件保护。要显示它您需要在浏览器中启用JavaScript。 (L.C.); 该Email地址已收到反垃圾邮件插件保护。要显示它您需要在浏览器中启用JavaScript。 (E.Z.)

* Correspondence: 该Email地址已收到反垃圾邮件插件保护。要显示它您需要在浏览器中启用JavaScript。; Tel.: +39-0321-373-3387

Academic Editor: Adam Reich

Received: 30 December 2024

Revised: 23 January 2025

Accepted: 27 January 2025

Published: 1 February 2025

Citation: Camillo, L.; Zavattaro, E.; Savoia, P. Nicotinamide: A

Multifaceted Molecule in Skin Health and Beyond. Medicina 2025, 61, 254.

https://doi.org/10.3390/ medicina61020254

Copyright: © 2025 by the authors. Published by MDPI on behalf of the Lithuanian University of Health Sciences. Licensee MDPI, Basel, Switzerland. This article is an open access article distributed under the terms and conditions of the Creative Commons Attribution (CC BY) license (https://creativecommons.org/ licenses/by/4.0/)

Abstract: Nicotinamide (NAM), the amide form of vitamin B3, is a precursor to essential cofactors nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide (NAD+ ) and NADPH. NAD+ is integral to numerous cellular processes, including metabolism regulation, ATP production, mitochondrial respiration, reactive oxygen species (ROS) management, DNA repair, cellular senescence, and aging. NAM supplementation has demonstrated efficacy in restoring cellular energy, repairing DNA damage, and inhibiting inflammation by suppressing proinflammatory cytokines release. Due to its natural presence in a variety of foods and its excellent safety profile—even at high doses of up to 3 g/day—NAM is extensively used in the chemoprevention of non-melanoma skin cancers and the treatment of dermatological conditions such as blistering diseases, atopic dermatitis, rosacea, and acne vulgaris. Recently, its anti-aging properties have elevated NAM’s prominence in skincare formulations. Beyond DNA repair and energy replenishment, NAM significantly impacts oxidative stress reduction, cell cycle regulation, and apoptosis modulation. Despite these multifaceted benefits, the comprehensive molecular mechanisms underlying NAM’s actions remain not fully elucidated. This review consolidates recent research to shed light on these mechanisms, emphasizing the critical role of NAM in cellular health and its therapeutic potential. By enhancing our understanding, this work underscores the importance of continued exploration into NAM’s applications, aiming to inform future clinical practices and skincare

Keywords: nicotinamide; chemoprevention; skin health; cellular oxidative stress; DNA damage; photoaging; ultraviolet radiation; inflammation; vitamin B3
Acheta domesticus: A Natural Source of Anti-Skin-Aging Ingredients for Cosmetic Applications 2025-04-09 00:00

Kankanit Yeerong 1 , Panuwan Chantawannakul 2 , Songyot Anuchapreeda 3,4 , Thomas Rades 5 ,

Anette Müllertz 5,6 and Wantida Chaiyana 1,4,7,*

1 Department of Pharmaceutical Sciences, Faculty of Pharmacy, Chiang Mai University, Chiang Mai 50200, Thailand; 该Email地址已收到反垃圾邮件插件保护。要显示它您需要在浏览器中启用JavaScript。

2 Bee Protection Laboratory, Department of Biology, Faculty of Science, Chiang Mai University, Chiang Mai 50200, Thailand; 该Email地址已收到反垃圾邮件插件保护。要显示它您需要在浏览器中启用JavaScript。

3 Division of Clinical Microscopy, Department of Medical Technology, Faculty of Associated Medical Sciences, Chiang Mai University, Chiang Mai 50200, Thailand; 该Email地址已收到反垃圾邮件插件保护。要显示它您需要在浏览器中启用JavaScript。

4 Center of Excellence in Pharmaceutical Nanotechnology, Faculty of Pharmacy, Chiang Mai University, Chiang Mai 50200, Thailand

5 Department of Pharmacy, Faculty of Health and Medical Sciences, University of Copenhagen, Universitetsparken 2, 2100 Copenhagen, Denmark; 该Email地址已收到反垃圾邮件插件保护。要显示它您需要在浏览器中启用JavaScript。 (T.R.); 该Email地址已收到反垃圾邮件插件保护。要显示它您需要在浏览器中启用JavaScript。 (A.M.)

6 Bioneer:FARMA, Department of Pharmacy, University of Copenhagen, Universitetsparken 2, 2100 Copenhagen, Denmark

7 Multidisciplinary and Interdisciplinary School, Chiang Mai University, Chiang Mai 50200, Thailand *

Correspondence: 该Email地址已收到反垃圾邮件插件保护。要显示它您需要在浏览器中启用JavaScript。

Abstract: Acheta domesticus is an edible insect, rich in nutritional value and considered a sustainable protein source. This study aimed to investigate the potential application of A. domesticus extracts for anti-skin-aging purposes. The extracts were prepared by maceration at ambient temperature with 95% ethanol or hexane and maceration in gentle heat (45 ◦C) with 95% v/v ethanol or DI water. The extracts were examined for total protein, phenolic, and flavonoid contents. Protein molecular weight distribution was analyzed. The safety of the extracts was investigated in terms of irritation and cytotoxicity. Biological activities relevant to the inhibition of skin aging were evaluated, including increasing transforming growth factor-beta 1 (TGF-β1) expression and inhibitory activities on collagenase and hyaluronidase. The aqueous extract from maceration in gentle heat had the highest total protein content (63 ± 1% w/w), total phenolic content (0.48 ± 0.03 mg GAE/g extract), TGF-β1

stimulating activities (33 ± 2 pg/mL), and collagenase inhibition (with a half maximal inhibitory

concentration of 26 ± 1 µg/mL) among various extracts investigated. It caused no irritation to the

hen’s egg chorioallantoic membrane and showed no cytotoxicity to human dermal fibroblasts and

peripheral blood mononuclear cells. Therefore, aqueous A. domesticus extract is proposed as an

innovative natural anti-skin-aging ingredient.

Keywords: Acheta domesticus; anti-aging skincare; cosmetic; human dermal fibroblast; safety

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