Nahid Amini | Christina Osterlund | Jessen Curpen | Virginie Lafon-Kolb | Thibaud Richard | Lene Visdal-Johnsen Global Research and Development, Oriflame Cosmetics, Stockholm, Sweden
Correspondence: Nahid Amini (该Email地址已收到反垃圾邮件插件保护。要显示它您需要在浏览器中启用JavaScript。)
Received: 19 September 2024 | Revised: 15 November 2024 | Accepted: 25 November 2024
Funding: The authors received no specific funding for this work.
Keywords: collagen | data mining | dermal density | Glycyrrhiza uralensis | phytoestrogen
ABSTRACT
Background: The dermal extracellular matrix (ECM) is a dynamic scaffold composed mainly of proteins, with collagen as the key structural component providing resilience and support to the skin. Post-menopause, declining estrogen levels lead to a significant reduction in skin health, notably a 30% decrease in collagen types I and III within 5 years.
Aim: To discover natural extracts that stimulate collagen production.
Methods: We utilized PathwayStudio to analyze protein–protein interactions and identify regulators of essential collagen types. Our study assessed Glycyrrhiza uralensis extract's ability to boost collagen production and enhance dermal density both in vitro and in vivo.
Results: PathwayStudio analysis highlighted phytoestrogens including glycyrrhizin, isoliquiritigenin, liquiritigenin, liquiritin, and glabrol, as potential candidates. Liquorice rhizome (G. uralensis), used in traditional Chinese medicine, is rich in phytoestrogens like liquiritigenin. The G. uralensis extract increased collagen I and III gene expression and pro-collagen I protein levels in human dermal fibroblasts and inhibited UVB and pollution-induced matrix metalloproteinase-1 (MMP1) production. In an in vivo study, a topical formulation containing the extract significantly improved dermal density after 56days, measured by the DUB SkinScanner.
Conclusions: These findings suggest G. uralensis extract as a promising agent for enhancing collagen production and skin health, particularly in postmenopausal women. Further research is needed to explore its mechanisms and long-term effects.
Trung Quang Nguyen 1 , Thinh Van Pham 2 , Yusuf Andriana 3 and Minh Ngoc Truong 4,5,*
1 Institute of Environmental Science and Public Health, 18 Hoang Quoc Viet Street, Cau Giay, Hanoi 11353, Vietnam; 该Email地址已收到反垃圾邮件插件保护。要显示它您需要在浏览器中启用JavaScript。
2 Faculty of Tourism and Culinary, Ho Chi Minh City University of Industry and Trade, Ho Chi Minh City 70000, Vietnam; 该Email地址已收到反垃圾邮件插件保护。要显示它您需要在浏览器中启用JavaScript。
3 Research Center for Appropriate Technology, Indonesian Institute of Sciences, Subang 41213, Indonesia; 该Email地址已收到反垃圾邮件插件保护。要显示它您需要在浏览器中启用JavaScript。
4 Center for High Technology Research and Development, Vietnam Academy of Science and Technology, 18 Hoang Quoc Viet Street, Cau Giay, Hanoi 100000, Vietnam
5 Graduate University of Science and Technology, Vietnam Academy of Science and Technology, 18 Hoang Quoc Viet Street, Cau Giay, Hanoi 100000, Vietnam
* Correspondence: 该Email地址已收到反垃圾邮件插件保护。要显示它您需要在浏览器中启用JavaScript。
Academic Editor: Shige Wang
Received: 9 December 2024
Revised: 23 December 2024
Accepted: 25 December 2024
Published: 3 January 2025
Citation: Nguyen, T.Q.; Van Pham, T.; Andriana, Y.; Truong, M.N. Cordyceps militaris-Derived Bioactive Gels:
Therapeutic and Anti-Aging Applications in Dermatology. Gels 2025, 11, 33. https://doi.org/ 10.3390/gels11010033
Copyright: © 2025 by the authors.
Licensee MDPI, Basel, Switzerland.
This article is an open access article distributed under the terms and conditions of the Creative Commons Attribution (CC BY) license (https://creativecommons.org/ licenses/by/4.0/).
Abstract: Cordyceps militaris is a medicinal mushroom widely utilized in traditional East Asian medicine, recognized for its diverse therapeutic properties. This review explores the potential of C. militaris-derived bioactive gels for applications in dermatology and skincare, with a particular focus on their therapeutic and anti-aging benefits. In response to the rising incidence of skin cancers and the growing demand for natural bioactive ingredients, C. militaris has emerged as a valuable source of functional compounds, including cordycepin, polysaccharides, and adenosine. These compounds exhibit multiple bioactivities, including apoptosis induction, cell cycle arrest, and anti-inflammatory effects, which have been shown to be particularly effective against melanoma and other skin cancers. Additionally, the antioxidant properties of C. militaris enhance skin resilience by scavenging reactive oxygen species, reducing oxidative stress, and promoting collagen synthesis, thereby addressing skin health and anti-aging requirements. The potential for incorporating C. militaris compounds into gel-based formulations for skincare is also ex amined, either as standalone bioactives or in combination with synergistic ingredients. Emphasis is placed on the necessity of clinical trials and standardization to establish the safety, efficacy, and reproducibility of such applications. By providing a safer alternative to synthetic agents, C. militaris-derived bioactive gels represent a promising advancement in dermatology and skincare.
Keywords: anti-aging; bioactive compounds; Cordyceps militaris; dermatology; skincare; therapeutic properties
美国哈佛大学烧伤中心访问学者，全军烧伤专业委员会 常务委员，全国烧伤外科学分会青年委员会副主任委员，解放军医学杂志编委，中华烧伤杂志通讯编委。 擅长危重烧伤、颜面部烧伤、深度电烧伤和糖尿病足等难愈性创面治疗，特别是在疤痕与畸形整复方面经验丰富。
现任中华医学会创伤分会创面学组全国委员、中国医师学会烧伤分会全国委员、中华医学会烧伤分会青年委员、全军烧伤专业委员会委员、重庆市烧伤专业委员会委员、西南五省一巿烧伤整形学术委员会常委、中华烧伤杂志通讯编委、国家自然基金及SFDA新药评审专家、国外SCI杂志BURNS及Military Medicine等杂志审稿人等。
教授，烧伤科主任，博士生导师，国家级首批新世纪百千万人才工程人选、省烧伤外科专业委员会常委等。享受国务院特殊津贴。
管理治疗了大量烧烫伤、冻伤、电击伤、压疮及瘢痕患者，多次参与成批危重烧伤患者的救治工作。曾于国内外多所权威激光及整形治疗机构进修学习。
擅长： 各种烧伤治疗、表皮肿物去除和皮瓣成形、体表瘢痕防治，糖尿病足、褥疮、慢性难愈性创面的治疗；面部、胸部整形，自体脂肪移植。
从事整形、烧伤临床、教学、科研10年。2016年在中国科学院整形外科医院进修整1年，系统的学习了整形美容理论知识和临床手术技能。在国内第一作者发表论文6篇，参与发表论文20余篇，多篇为核心期刊。
伤口世界平台生态圈，以“关爱人间所有伤口患者”为愿景，连接、整合和拓展线上和线下的管理慢性伤口的资源，倡导远程、就近和居家管理慢性伤口，解决伤口专家的碎片化时间的价值创造、诊疗经验的裂变复制、和患者的就近、居家和低成本管理慢性伤口的问题。
2019广东省医疗行业协会伤口管理分会年会
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