Valorisation of Winery By-Products: Revealing the Polyphenolic Profile of Grape Stems and Their Inhibitory Effects on Skin Aging-Enzymes for Cosmetic and Pharmaceutical Applications

Rui Dias-Costa 1,* , Concepción Medrano-Padial 2 , Raquel Fernandes 1 , Raúl Domínguez-Perles 2 , Irene Gouvinhas 1 and Ana Novo Barros 1,*

1 Centre for the Research and Technology of Agro-Environmental and Biological Sciences (CITAB), Institute for Innovation, Capacity Building and Sustainability of Agri-Food Production (Inov4Agro), University of Trás-os-Montes e Alto Douro, Quinta de Prados, 5000-801 Vila Real, Portugal; 该Email地址已收到反垃圾邮件插件保护。要显示它您需要在浏览器中启用JavaScript。 (R.F.); 该Email地址已收到反垃圾邮件插件保护。要显示它您需要在浏览器中启用JavaScript。 (I.G.)

2 Laboratorio de Fitoquímica y Alimentos Saludables (LabFAS), Centro de Edafología y Biología Aplicada del Segura-Spanish Council for Scientific Research (EBAS-CSIC), University Campus of Espinardo 25, 30100 Murcia, Spain; 该Email地址已收到反垃圾邮件插件保护。要显示它您需要在浏览器中启用JavaScript。 (C.M.-P.); 该Email地址已收到反垃圾邮件插件保护。要显示它您需要在浏览器中启用JavaScript。 (R.D.-P.)

* Correspondence: 该Email地址已收到反垃圾邮件插件保护。要显示它您需要在浏览器中启用JavaScript。 (R.D.-C.); 该Email地址已收到反垃圾邮件插件保护。要显示它您需要在浏览器中启用JavaScript。 (A.N.B.)

Citation: Dias-Costa, R.; MedranoPadial, C.; Fernandes, R.; DomínguezPerles, R.; Gouvinhas, I.; Barros, A.N. Valorisation of Winery By-Products: Revealing the Polyphenolic Profile of Grape Stems and Their Inhibitory Effects on Skin Aging-Enzymes for Cosmetic and Pharmaceutical Applications. Molecules 2024, 29, 5437.

https://doi.org/10.3390/molecules 29225437

Academic Editor: Michael Jourdes

Received: 17 October 2024

Revised: 9 November 2024

Accepted: 15 November 2024

Published: 18 November 2024

Copyright: © 2024 by the authors.

Licensee MDPI, Basel, Switzerland.

This article is an open access article distributed under the terms and conditions of the Creative Commons Attribution (CC BY) license (https:// creativecommons.org/licenses/by/ 4.0/).

Abstract: Grape (Vitis vinifera L.) stems, a by-product of winemaking, possess significant potential value due to their rich polyphenolic composition, which allows their exploitation for cosmetic and pharmaceutical applications. This presents a promising opportunity for valorisation aimed at developing innovative products with potential health-promoting effects. In this study, the polyphenolic profile of extracts from grape stems of seven white grape varieties was determined using spectrophotometric and chromatographic methods, specifically high-performance liquid chromatography coupled with a photodiode array detector and electrospray ionization multi-stage mass spectrometry (HPLCPDA-ESI-MSn), as well as on their ferric-reducing antioxidant power (FRAP) and radical scavenging capacity, using 2,2-diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH• ) and 2,2′ -azino-bis(3-ethylbenzothiazoline-6- sulfonic acid (ABTS•+ ) radicals. This study also evaluated the anti-aging activity and skin depigmenting activity of these extracts. These findings revealed a diverse polyphenolic profile, encompassing proanthocyanidins and catechin derivatives (PCDs), phenolic acids, and flavonols. Among the varieties studied, ‘Códega do Larinho’ exhibited the highest concentrations of six distinct polyphenols and the highest total phenolic content. It also demonstrated the highest results for antioxidant capacity and elastase and tyrosinase inhibition. Pearson’s correlation analysis showed a significant positive correlation between certain PCDs with both FRAP and DPPH assays, as well as between the identified flavonols and anti-elastase activity. These results underscore the potential health benefits of grape stem extracts and emphasize the importance of their polyphenolic composition in enhancing antioxidant and anti-aging properties, thus supporting their application in different industries.

Keywords: grape stems; polyphenolic profile; antioxidant capacity; anti-aging; valorisation

A Comparative Study of the Chemical Composition and Skincare Activities of Red and Yellow Ginseng Berries

Yu-Dan Wang 1 , Lu-Sheng Han 1 , Gen-Yue Li 1 , Kai-Li Yang 1 , Yan-Long Shen 2 , Hao Zhang 3 , Jian-Feng Hou 4 and En-Peng Wang 1,*

1 Jilin Ginseng Academy, Changchun University of Chinese Medicine, Changchun 130117, China; 该Email地址已收到反垃圾邮件插件保护。要显示它您需要在浏览器中启用JavaScript。 (Y.-D.W.); 该Email地址已收到反垃圾邮件插件保护。要显示它您需要在浏览器中启用JavaScript。 (L.-S.H.); 该Email地址已收到反垃圾邮件插件保护。要显示它您需要在浏览器中启用JavaScript。 (G.-Y.L.); 该Email地址已收到反垃圾邮件插件保护。要显示它您需要在浏览器中启用JavaScript。 (K.-L.Y.)

2 College of Innovation and Entrepreneurship, Changchun University of Chinese Medicine, Changchun 130117, China; 该Email地址已收到反垃圾邮件插件保护。要显示它您需要在浏览器中启用JavaScript。

3 Institute of Special Animal and Plant Sciences CAAS, Changchun 130112, China; 该Email地址已收到反垃圾邮件插件保护。要显示它您需要在浏览器中启用JavaScript。

4 Shiqi Biological R&D Centre (Suzhou Industrial Park) Co., Ltd., Suzhou 215125, China; 该Email地址已收到反垃圾邮件插件保护。要显示它您需要在浏览器中启用JavaScript。 * Correspondence: 该Email地址已收到反垃圾邮件插件保护。要显示它您需要在浏览器中启用JavaScript。

Citation: Wang, Y.-D.; Han, L.-S.; Li, G.-Y.; Yang, K.-L.; Shen, Y.-L.; Zhang, H.; Hou, J.-F.; Wang, E.-P. A Comparative Study of the Chemical Composition and Skincare Activities of Red and Yellow Ginseng Berries. Molecules 2024, 29, 4962. https:// doi.org/ 10.3390/molecules29204962

Academic Editors: Jurca Tünde and

Laura Gratiela Vicas

Received: 5 September 2024

Revised: 14 October 2024

Accepted: 18 October 2024

Published: 20 October 2024

Copyright: © 2024 by the authors.

Licensee MDPI, Basel, Switzerland.

This article is an open access article distributed under the terms and conditions of the Creative Commons Attribution (CC BY) license (https:// creativecommons.org/licenses/by/ 4.0/)

Abstract: This study was conducted to investigate the differences in chemical composition between red (RGBs) and yellow ginseng berries (YGBs) and their whitening and anti-aging skincare effects. The differences in the chemical composition between RGB and YGB were analyzed by ultrahigh-performance liquid chromatography tandem quadrupole electrostatic field orbit trap mass spectrometry (UHPLC-Q-Exactive-MS/MS) combined with multivariate statistics. An aging model was established using UVB radiation induction, and the whitening and anti-aging effects of the two ginseng berries were verified in vitro and in vivo using cell biology (HaCaT and B16-F10 cells) and zebrafish model organisms. A total of 31 differential compounds, including saponins, flavonoids, phenolic acids, and other chemical constituents, were identified between the two groups. Superoxide dismutase (SOD) activity was more significantly increased (p < 0.05) and malondialdehyde (MDA) content was more significantly decreased (p < 0.01) in RGB more than YGB induced by UVB ultraviolet radiation. In terms of whitening effects, YGB was more effective in inhibiting the melanin content of B16-F10 cells (p < 0.01). The results of zebrafish experiments were consistent with those of in vitro experiments and cell biology experiments. The DCFH fluorescence staining results revealed that both ginseng berries were able to significantly reduce the level of reactive oxygen species (ROS) in zebrafish (p < 0.01). Comparison of chemical composition and skin care activities based on RGB and YGB can provide a theoretical basis for the deep development and utilization of ginseng berry resources.

Keywords: ginseng; ginseng berry; chemical composition; anti-aging; anti-UVB; anti-melanin; whitening

Exploring Anti-Aging Effects of Topical Treatments for Actinic Keratosis

Federica Li Pomi 1 , Andrea d’Aloja 2 , Dario Valguarnera 2 , Mario Vaccaro 2 and Francesco Borgia 2,*

1 Department of Precision Medicine in Medical, Surgical and Critical Care (Me.Pre.C.C.), University of Palermo, 90127 Palermo, Italy; 该Email地址已收到反垃圾邮件插件保护。要显示它您需要在浏览器中启用JavaScript。

2 Department of Clinical and Experimental Medicine, Section of Dermatology, University of Messina, 98125 Messina, Italy; 该Email地址已收到反垃圾邮件插件保护。要显示它您需要在浏览器中启用JavaScript。 (A.d.); 该Email地址已收到反垃圾邮件插件保护。要显示它您需要在浏览器中启用JavaScript。 (D.V.); 该Email地址已收到反垃圾邮件插件保护。要显示它您需要在浏览器中启用JavaScript。 (M.V.) * Correspondence: 该Email地址已收到反垃圾邮件插件保护。要显示它您需要在浏览器中启用JavaScript。

Academic Editor: Vita Lesauskaite.

Received: 3 January 2025

Revised: 14 January 2025

Accepted: 22 January 2025

Published: 24 January 2025

Citation: Li Pomi, F.; d’Aloja, A.;

Valguarnera, D.; Vaccaro, M.; Borgia, F.

Exploring Anti–Aging Effects of Topical Treatments for Actinic Keratosis. Medicina 2025, 61, 207.

https://doi.org/10.3390/ medicina61020207

Copyright: © 2025 by the authors.

Published by MDPI on behalf of the Lithuanian University of Health Sciences. Licensee MDPI, Basel, Switzerland. This article is an open access article distributed under the terms and conditions of the Creative Commons Attribution (CC BY) license

(https://creativecommons.org/ licenses/by/4.0/)

Abstract: Background and Objectives: Actinic keratosis (AK) is a precancerous cutaneous lesion driven by chronic ultraviolet (UV) exposure, often coexisting with features of photoaging, such as wrinkles and pigmentary irregularities. Recent evidence suggests that treatments for AK may also counteract photoaging through shared molecular pathways, including oxidative stress and inflammation. This narrative review explores the dual benefits of AK therapies, highlighting their potential anti-aging and skin-lightening effects, and implications for improving skin appearance alongside lesion clearance. Materials and Methods: The literature was analyzed to assess the efficacy, mechanisms, and cosmetic outcomes of commonly used AK treatments, including topical agents (5-fluorouracil (5-FU), imiquimod, diclofenac, and tirbanibulin), and photodynamic therapy (PDT). Studies highlighting their effects on photoaged skin, collagen remodeling, pigmentation, and patient satisfaction were reviewed. Results: PDT emerged as the most validated treatment, demonstrating improved collagen synthesis, skin texture, and pigmentation. 5-FU showed remodeling of the dermal matrix and increased procollagen levels, but local skin reactions represent a major limitation. Imiquimod enhanced dermal fibroplasia and reduced solar elastosis, while diclofenac provided mild photodamage improvements with minimal adverse effects. Tirbanibulin showed promising aesthetic outcomes, including skin lightening and a reduction in mottled pigmentation, with favorable tolerability. Conclusions: AK therapies offer a dual-purpose strategy, addressing both precancerous lesions and cosmetic concerns associated with photoaging. While PDT remains the gold standard, emerging agents like tirbanibulin ointment exhibit substantial potential. Future research should focus on optimizing treatment protocols and evaluating long-term cosmetic outcomes to enhance patient satisfaction and compliance.

Keywords: actinic keratosis; anti–aging; oxidative stress; photodynamic therapy; skin aging; skin lightening; solar lentigo; tirbanibulin; 5–fluorouracil

Tailoring biomaterials for skin anti-aging

Xin Dan a,1 , Songjie Li a,1 , Han Chen a , Ping Xue a , Bo Liu a , Yikun Ju b , Lanjie Lei c,**,

Yang Li a,***, Xing Fan a,*

a Department of Plastic and Reconstructive Surgery, Xijing Hospital, Fourth Military Medical University, Xi’an, 710032, China

b Department of Plastic and Aesthetic (Burn) Surgery, The Second Xiangya Hospital, Central South University, Changsha, 410011, China

c Key Laboratory of Artificial Organs and Computational Medicine in Zhejiang Province, Institute of Translational Medicine, Zhejiang Shuren University, Hangzhou, 310015, China

* Corresponding author.

** Corresponding author.

*** Corresponding author.

E-mail addresses: 该Email地址已收到反垃圾邮件插件保护。要显示它您需要在浏览器中启用JavaScript。 (L. Lei), 该Email地址已收到反垃圾邮件插件保护。要显示它您需要在浏览器中启用JavaScript。 (Y. Li), 该Email地址已收到反垃圾邮件插件保护。要显示它您需要在浏览器中启用JavaScript。 (X. Fan).

1 These authors contributed equally to this work and shared the first authorship.

ARTICLE INFO

Keywords:

Biomaterials、Skin anti-aging、Plastic surgery、Tissue regeneration、Medical aesthetics

ABSTRACT

Skin aging is the phenomenon of degenerative changes in the structure and function of skin tissues over time and is manifested by a gradual loss of skin elasticity and firmness, an increased number of wrinkles, and hyperpigmentation. Skin anti-aging refers to a reduction in the skin aging phenomenon through medical cosmetic technologies. In recent years, new biomaterials have been continuously developed for improving the appearance of the skin through mechanical tissue filling, regulating collagen synthesis and degradation, inhibiting pigmentation, and repairing the skin barrier. This review summarizes the mechanisms associated with skin aging, describes the biomaterials that are commonly used in medical aesthetics and their possible modes of action, and discusses the application strategies of biomaterials in this area. Moreover, the synergistic effects of such biomaterials and other active ingredients, such as stem cells, exosomes, growth factors, and antioxidants, on tissue regeneration and anti-aging are evaluated. Finally, the possible challenges and development prospects of biomaterials in the field of anti-aging are discussed, and novel ideas for future innovations in this area are summarized.

Curcumin and EGCG combined formulation in nanostructured lipid carriers for anti-aging applications

Chidchanok Prathumwon a , Songyot Anuchapreeda b , Kanokwan Kiattisin a , Pawaret Panyajai b , Panikchar Wichayapreechar d , Young-Joon Surh e , Chadarat Ampasavate a,c,*

a Department of Pharmaceutical Sciences, Faculty of Pharmacy, Chiang Mai University, Chiang Mai 50200, Thailand

b Division of Clinical Microscopy, Department of Medical Technology, Faculty of Associated Medical Sciences, Chiang Mai University, Chiang Mai 50200, Thailand

c Center for Excellence in Pharmaceutical Nanotechnology, Faculty of Pharmacy, Chiang Mai University, Chiang Mai 50200, Thailand

d Department of Cosmetic Sciences, School of Pharmaceutical Sciences, University of Phayao, Phayao 56000, Thailand

e College of Pharmacy, Seoul National University, Seoul 151-741, South Korea

Corresponding author at: Department of Pharmaceutical Sciences, Faculty of Pharmacy, Chiang Mai University, Chiang Mai 50200, Thailand.

E-mail address: 该Email地址已收到反垃圾邮件插件保护。要显示它您需要在浏览器中启用JavaScript。 (C. Ampasavate).

ABSTRACT

Curcumin (Cur) and epigallocatechin gallate (EGCG), the primary active compounds in turmeric and green tea, respectively, have been investigated for their anti-aging potential. The Cur and EGCG combination was encapsulated in sustained-release nanostructured lipid carriers (NLCs) to enhance their bioactivities and pharmaceutical properties. A significant enhancement in the antioxidant activities of the Cur and EGCG combination was observed at an optimal ratio, as demonstrated by the 2,2-diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl radical scavenging assay (118.83 ± 3.78 %), ferric ion reducing antioxidant power assay (217.25 ± 13.45 %), and lipid peroxidation inhibition assay (106.08 ± 12.93 %), compared to Cur alone without compromising the antioxidant activities and total phenolic content of EGCG. This is due to the enhancement of total phenolic content of the combination of 218.83 ± 10.57 %. For anti-aging activities, the combination exhibited stimulation of SIRT1 protein and inhibition of collagenase and elastase of 27.53 ± 0.73 %, 43.70 ± 1.05 % and 51.76 ± 6.52 % compared with that achieved with Cur alone, respectively. The incorporation of the Cur and EGCG combination into NLCs resulted in high entrapment efficiencies of 98.60 ± 0.05 % for Cur and 98.40 ± 0.08 % for EGCG, with corresponding loading capacities of 0.789 ± 0.001 % and 3.935 ± 0.003 %, respectively. When formulated NLCs into an emulgel base, the system demonstrated sustained release profiles over 48 h, with 12.82 ± 0.99 % release of Cur and 63.77 ± 5.76 % release of EGCG. Significant skin retention was also observed after 24 h, with 23.88 ± 1.71 % Cur and 22.79 ± 4.65 % EGCG retained in the skin. Therefore, Cur: EGCG-loaded NLCs in emulgel can deliver the active compounds into the dermis, enhancing skin penetration, sustained delivery, and anti-aging activity superior to each conventional single active compound in topical formulations.

ARTICLE INFO

Keywords: Curcumin   Epigallocatechin gallate    SIRT1  Anti-aging  HaCaT cells  Nanostructured lipid carriers  Skin

Small molecule conjugates with selective estrogen receptor b agonism promote anti-aging benefits in metabolism and skin recovery

Tarik Zahra,b,y , Vijay K. Bodac,d,y , Jian Gee,f,y , Lexiang Yua,g , Zhongzhi Wuc,d , Jianwen Quee,f,h, *, Wei Lic,d, *, Li Qianga,g, *

a Naomi Berrie Diabetes Center, Columbia University, New York, NY 10032, USA

b Department of Molecular Pharmacology and Therapeutics, Columbia University, New York, NY 10032, USA

c Department of Pharmaceutical Sciences, College of Pharmacy, University of Tennessee Health Science Center, Memphis, TN 38163, USA

d Drug Discovery Center, College of Pharmacy, University of Tennessee Health Science Center, Memphis, TN 38163, USA

e Division of Digestive and Liver Diseases, Columbia University, New York, NY 10032, USA

f Center for Human Development, Columbia University, New York, NY 10027, USA

g Department of Pathology and Cell Biology, Columbia University, New York, NY 10032, USA

h Department of Medicine, Columbia University, New York, NY 10032, USA

*Corresponding authors.

E-mail addresses: 该Email地址已收到反垃圾邮件插件保护。要显示它您需要在浏览器中启用JavaScript。 (Jianwen Que), 该Email地址已收到反垃圾邮件插件保护。要显示它您需要在浏览器中启用JavaScript。 (Wei Li), 该Email地址已收到反垃圾邮件插件保护。要显示它您需要在浏览器中启用JavaScript。 (Li Qiang).

These authors made equal contributions to this work.

Peer review under the responsibility of Chinese Pharmaceutical Association and Institute of Materia Medica, Chinese Academy of Medical Sciences.

Received 22 October 2023; received in revised form 13 December 2023; accepted 5 January 2024

KEY WORDS Estrogen receptor b; Aging; Metabolism; Skin injury; Muscle metabolism; Small molecule conjugates; Regeneration; Adiposity