A broad assessment of forty-one skin phenotypes reveals complex dimensions of skin ageing

Jun Yan Ng1 , Qi Yi Ambrose Wong1 , Jun Jie Lim1 , Dingyu Cen1 , Jia Yi Karen Wong1 , Yi Ying Eliza Lim1 , Yang Yie Sio1 , Kavita Reginald1,2 , Yee‑How Say1,2,3 and Fook Tim Chew1,4*

*Correspondence:

Fook Tim Chew

dbscft@nus.edu.sg

Full list of author information is available at the end of the article

Abstract

Background Skin ageing takes on many diferent forms. Despite this diversity in skin ageing phenotypes, literature published to date is limited in scope, as many research studies either focus on one single phenotype or just a few specifc phenotypes. Presently, phenotypes such as wrinkles, pigment spots, and photo-ageing are receiving most of the research attention. We therefore wonder whether the current discourse on skin ageing places a disproportion‑ate amount of focus on a few selected phenotypes, leaving other skin ageing phenotypes underexplored.

Methods In this cross-sectional study, we performed a broad assessment of forty-one signs of skin ageing and characterised the phenotypes that constituted key components of skin ageing. We also explored the interrelationship among forty-one skin ageing phenotypes using Spearman’s Correlation and Principal Component Analysis.

Results We analysed our study population, which is composed of 3281 ethnic Chinese participants from the Singapore/Malaysia Cross-sectional Genetics Epidemiology Study (SMCGES). The first ten principal components cumulatively explain 46.88% of the variance of skin ageing phenotypes in our study population. We discovered that the commonly discussed forms of skin ageing (i.e., wrinkles, pigmentation, and photo-ageing) only accounted for a small portion (24.39%) of the variance of all skin ageing phenotypes in our study population. Telangiectasia, a poor lip fullness, a lighter skin colour, xerosis, ephelides (freckles), ptosis of eyelids (droopy eyelids), eyebags, and a low eyebrow positioning were other key components of skin ageing, accounting for a further 22.49% of the variance of skin ageing phenotypes in our study population. We found that each of these ten skin ageing phenotypes characterises a key and important aspect of skin ageing. In this broad assessment of skin ageing, we frst described the prevalence of forty-one signs of skin ageing and then characterised in detail both the prevalence and severity distribution of ten key skin ageing phenotypes.

Conclusions We presented clear evidence that skin ageing is much more than just wrinkles, pigmentation and photo-ageing. The addition of telangiectasia, poor lip fullness, a lighter skin colour, xerosis, ephelides, ptosis of eyelids, eyebags, and a low eyebrow positioning added more dimensions to skin ageing phenotype presentations.

Keywords Skin aging, Skin ageing, Broad assessment, Cross-sectional study, Wrinkling, Sagging, Principal Component Analysis, Chinese, Singapore/Malaysia Cross-sectional Genetics Epidemiology Study, SMCGES

© The Author(s) 2025. Open Access This article is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution 4.0 International License, which permits use, sharing, adaptation, distribution and reproduction in any medium or format, as long as you give appropriate credit to the original author(s) and the source, provide a link to the Creative Commons licence, and indicate if changes were made. The images or other third party material in this article are included in the article’s Creative Commons licence, unless indicated otherwise in a credit line to the material. If material is not included in the article’s Creative Commons licence and your intended use is not permitted by statutory regulation or exceeds the permitted use, you will need to obtain permission directly from the copyright holder. To view a copy of this licence, visit http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/4.0/. The Creative Commons Public Domain Dedication waiver (http://creativecommons.org/publicdomain/zero/1.0/) applies to the data made available in this article, unless otherwise stated in a credit line to the data.

The state of the art in anti-aging: plant-based phytochemicals for skin care

Merve Tomas1 , Deniz Günal-Köroğlu1 , Senem Kamiloglu2,3, Tugba Ozdal4 and Esra Capanoglu1,5*

Abstract

Phytochemicals help mitigate skin aging by scavenging free radicals, modulating key enzymatic pathways, and promoting the skin’s structural integrity. Carotenoids, vitamins, essential fatty acids, and phenolic compounds work by acting as antioxidants, inhibiting enzymes like hyaluronidase, collagenase, and elastase, which degrade skin structure, and reducing levels of inflammatory markers (IL-6, IL-8, etc.) and matrix metalloproteinases (MMP-1, MMP- 2) linked to aging. Recent research highlights that plant-based phytochemicals can improve skin elasticity, reduce hyperpigmentation, prevent the breakdown of important skin proteins, and support wound healing, making them valuable components for skin care and treatments. This review explores the multifaceted roles of phytochemicals in maintaining and improving skin health, highlighting their mechanisms of action and potential in skin anti-aging

Keywords Skin care, Anti-aging, Phytochemicals, Polyphenols, Carotenoids, Fatty acids, Saponins, Alkoloids

*Correspondence:

Esra Capanoglu

capanogl@itu.edu.tr

1 Department of Food Engineering, Faculty of Chemical and Metallurgical Engineering, Istanbul Technical University, 34469 Maslak, Istanbul, Türkiye

2 Department of Food Engineering, Faculty of Agriculture, Bursa Uludag University, 16059 Gorukle, Bursa, Türkiye

3 Science and Technology Application and Research Center (BITUAM), Bursa Uludag University, 16059 Gorukle, Bursa, Türkiye

4 Department of Food Engineering, Faculty of Engineering and Natural Sciences, Istanbul Okan University, 34959 Tuzla, Istanbul, Türkiye

5 School of Food and Biological Engineering, Jiangsu University, Zhenjiang 212013, China

Facial Skincare Routine Adherence in the General Population

Leah Cliatt , Joanna Petrides

1. Dermatology, Rowan-Virtua School of Osteopathic Medicine, Stratford, USA 2. Family Medicine, Rowan-Virtua School of Osteopathic Medicine, Stratford, USA

Corresponding author: Leah Cliatt, leahcliatt@gmail.com

Abstract

Introduction

The COVID-19 pandemic sparked an interest in skincare with the closure of spas and salons. Skincare, one of TikTok's most popular dermatology-related hashtags, received hundreds of millions of views. The American Academy of Dermatology (AAD) sharedfacial cleansing recommendations; however, how many people follow them is unclear. Studies have shown a good daily facial cleansing andmoisturizing routine can increase microbiome diversityand skin hydration. This can be beneficial in conditions like psoriasis, eczema, and acne.

Purpose

The aim of the study is to assess how well people follow the AAD recommendations and evaluate any differences in this behavior by gender.

Methods

A 19-question survey was designed and administered utilizing Qualtrics. The questions included demographic information, facial cleansing practices, and motivation for skincare routine. The survey was distributed via Rowan Email and on various social media platforms (GroupMe, Instagram, etc.) to target the general population. The data was analyzed using SPSS.

Results

One hundred twenty-four responses were collected from 91 female-identifying and 33 male-identifying participants. There were statistically significant differences between genders for the use of non-alcoholic gentle cleanser (p<0.001), use of moisturizer after washing the face (p<0.001), washing the face after sweating (p<0.001), and using warm water (p=0.026). No statistically significant difference was seen for face washing occurrence between genders (p=0.098). Statistically significant differences were seen between genders for motivation: hygiene (p<0.001), beauty/anti-aging (p<0.001), and health (p=0.004).

Conclusion

Individuals who identify as female may be more likely to adhere to AAD facial skincare recommendations. This could be a result of self-reported motivations such as hygiene, beauty, and health.

Categories: Dermatology

Keywords: beauty, dermatologic agents, dermatology, face cleansing, face washing, female, hygiene, skin

Review began 11/19/2024

Review ended 12/12/2024

Published 12/16/2024

© Copyright 2024

Cliatt et al. This is an open access article distributed under the terms of the Creative Commons Attribution License CC-BY 4.0., which permits unrestricted use, distribution, and reproduction in any medium, provided the original author and source are credited.

DOI: 10.7759/cureus.75810

Comprehensive evaluation of the efficacy and safety of a new multi-component anti-aging topical eye cream

Fan Yang1 Xinyuan Zhang2 Hua Wang1 Miao Guo1 Jinlong Zhang1 Xuejiao Feng3 Jiayi Yu3 Jiahui Yang3 Jinjin Zhu4 Yiyu Wang3

1 Research & Development Center, Mageline Biology Tech Co., Ltd, Wuhan, Hubei, China

2 Shanghai Skinshield Clinical Testing and Technological Research Ltd., Shanghai, China

3 Department of Dermatology, Air Force Medical Center, PLA, Beijing, China

4 Department of Dermatology, Union Hospital, Tongji Medical College, Huazhong University of Science and Technology (HUST), Wuhan, China

Correspondence

Jinjin Zhu, Department of Dermatology, Union Hospital, Tongji Medical College, Huazhong University of Science and Technology (HUST), Wuhan, 430022, China.

Email: zhujinjinhust@foxmail.com

Yiyu Wang, Department of Dermatology, Air Force Medical Center, PLA, Beijing, China.

Email: wangyiyuderm@163.com

This is an open access article under the terms of the Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivs License, which permits use and distribution in any medium, provided the original work is properly cited, the use is non-commercial and no modifications or adaptations are made.

© 2024 The Author(s). Skin Research and Technology published by John Wiley & Sons Ltd.

Abstract

Background: The delicate periorbital region is susceptible to skin dehydration, wrinkles, and loss of elasticity. Thus, targeted and effective anti-aging interventions are necessary for the periorbital area.

Aim: To evaluate the efficacy and safety of a new anti-aging eye cream formulated with the active complex (Yeast/rice fermentation filtrate, N-acetylneuraminic acid, palmityl tripeptide-1, and palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7).

Methods: The cell viability and expressions of key extracellular matrix (ECM) components of the active complex were evaluated using a human skin fibroblast model. In the 12-week clinical trial, skin hydration, elasticity, facial photographs, and collagen density following eye cream application were assessed using Corneometer, Cutometer, VISIA, and ultrasound device, respectively. Dermatologists and participants evaluated clinical efficacy and safety at baseline, and after 4, 8, and 12 weeks.

Results: PCR and immunofluorescent analyses revealed that the active complex significantly stimulated fibroblast proliferation (p < 0.05) and markedly promote the synthesis of collagen and elastin. Clinical findings exhibited a substantial enhancement in skin hydration (28.12%), elasticity (18.81%), and collagen production (54.99%) following 12 weeks of eye cream application. Dermatological evaluations and participants’ assessments reported a significant improvement in skin moisture, roughness, elasticity, as well as fine lines and wrinkles by week 8.

Conclusion: The new anti-aging eye cream, enriched with the active complex, demonstrates comprehensive rejuvenating effects, effectively addressing aging concerns in the periorbital area, coupled with a high safety profile.

KEYWORDS

anti-aging, collagen, elastin, extracellular matrix, eye cream, wrinkle

Efficacy and Tolerability of a Novel Cosmetic and Over-the-Counter Facial Acne Regimen Versus a Prescription Treatment

Priscilla Huang1 | Olivia Supan1 | Cecilia L. Pak2 | Rahul C. Mehta1 | Elizabeth T. Makino11 Allergan Aesthetics, an AbbVie Company, Irvine, California, USA | 2SGS Stephens Inc., Richardson, Texas, USA

Correspondence: Olivia Supan (olivia.supan@abbvie.com)

Rahul C. Mehta is a former employee of Allergan Aesthetics, an AbbVie Company.

Received: 24 June 2024 | Revised: 21 August 2024 | Accepted: 26 August 2024

Funding: Allergan Aesthetics, an AbbVie Company, funded this study and participated in the study design, research, analysis, data collection, interpretation of data, reviewing, and approval of the publication. All authors had access to relevant data and participated in the drafting, review, and approval of this publication. No honoraria or payments were made for authorship. Medical writing support was provided by Illyce Nuñez, PhD of Peloton Advantage, LLC, an OPEN Health company, and funded by Allergan Aesthetics, an AbbVie Company.

Keywords: acne vulgaris | erythema | post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation | salicylic acid

This is an open access article under the terms of the Creative Commons Attribution License, which permits use, distribution and reproduction in any medium, provided the original work is

properly cited.

© 2024 The Author(s). Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology published by Wiley Periodicals LLC.

The Efficacy of Topical Cosmetic Containing Alpha-Arbutin 5% and Kojic Acid 2% Compared With Triple Combination Cream for the Treatment of Melasma: A Split-Face, Evaluator-Blinded Randomized Pilot Study

Pimpa Tantanasrigul1 | Apinya Sripha1 | Bunchai Chongmelaxme21

Department of Medical Services, Ministry of Public Health, Institute of Dermatology, Bangkok, Thailand | 2Department of Social and Administrative Pharmacy, Faculty of Pharmaceutical Sciences, Chulalongkorn University, Bangkok, Thailand

Correspondence: Bunchai Chongmelaxme (bunchai.c@pharm.chula.ac.th)

Received: 5 July 2024 | Accepted: 22 August 2024

Funding: The authors received no specific funding for this work.

Keywords: alpha-arbutin 5% | efficacy | kojic acid 2% | melasma | safety | triple combination cream

ABSTRACT

Background: While the gold standard treatment for melasma is triple combination cream (TCC), arbutin and kojic acid demonstrate their benefits and may be used as an alternative.

Aims: To investigate the efficacy of cream containing alpha-arbutin 5% and kojic acid 2% (AAK) compared with TCC for melasma treatment.

Patients/Methods: A split-faced, randomized study was conducted among 30 participants with melasma, and all were randomized to receive AAK or TCC on each side of their face for 12-week along with 4-week follow-up period. The melanin index (MI), modified Melasma Area Severity Index (mMASI), and physician global assessment (PGA) scores were used to measure the effectiveness of interventions. Recurrence of melasma after treatment discontinuation was evaluated by MI and mMASI. Patient satisfactions and adverse effects were also evaluated. In the analysis, the mean difference (MD) was used for MI and mMASI, while Wilcoxon signed-rank test was for the PGA scores, adverse effects, and patient satisfaction.

Results: The MD of MI and mMASI scores were not different between groups (mMASI [p=0.344] and MI [p=0.268]). The PGA scores only showed improvement on the TCC-treated side (p=0.032). Compared to the AKK group, the subjects with TCC showed higher severity of recurrence (MI [p=0.004] and mMASI [p=0.045]). No difference in patient satisfaction score between the groups, but erythema and stinging were higher in the TCC group.

Conclusions: The AAK cream appeared to be effective for melasma treatment, highlighting a lower recurrent rate and fewer adverse events than standard therapy.

Trial Registration: thaiclinicaltrials.org: TCTR20230124004

This is an open access article under the terms of the Creative Commons Attribution License, which permits use, distribution and reproduction in any medium, provided the original work is properly cited.

© 2024 The Author(s). Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology published by Wiley Periodicals LLC.