Suradwadee Thungmungmee1 , Boonchoo Sritularak2 , Nakuntwalai Wisidsri1 , Nattakan Kanana3 , Nattika Nimmano3

1 Faculty of Integrative Medicine, Rajamangala University of Technology Thanyaburi, Pathum Thani, Thailand;

2 Department of Pharmacognosy and Pharmaceutical Botany, Faculty of Pharmaceutical Science, Chulalongkorn University, Bangkok, Thailand;

3 Department of Pharmaceutics and Industrial Pharmacy, Faculty of Pharmaceutical Sciences, Chulalongkorn University, Bangkok, Thailand

Correspondence: Nattika Nimmano, Department of Pharmaceutics and Industrial Pharmacy, Faculty of Pharmaceutical Sciences, Chulalongkorn University, Bangkok, Thailand, Tel +66 0 2188399, Fax +66 0 2188401, Email 该Email地址已收到反垃圾邮件插件保护。要显示它您需要在浏览器中启用JavaScript。

Purpose: The study aimed to investigate in vitro anti-aging activities of 29 Dendrobium spp. and develop and characterize microemulsions (MEs) for topical application.

Methods: Antioxidant activity was determined using 2,2-diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH), H2O2 scavenging, and ferric reducing antioxidant power (FRAP) assays. The anti-collagenase (MMP-1 and MMP-2) and anti-elastase activities were also evaluated.

Cytotoxicity and human intracellular reactive oxygen species (ROS) levels were determined using resazurin reduction and 2′,7′- dichlorofluorescin diacetate (DCFDA) assays, respectively. D. kentrophyllum extract-loaded microemulsion (DKME) was then prepared and optimized. The stability of DKME was studied using a heating-cooling cycle.

Results: D. kentrophyllum appeared to be the best candidate anti-aging agent because of its antioxidant, anti-collagenase, and antielastase activities. The extract was safe for human skin cells at a concentration of 6.25–100 μg/mL. It also decreased the intracellular ROS-induced ultraviolet B (UVB) irradiation compared to that in the control. DKME comprising Tween 80:ethanol (5:1), water, and isononyl isononanoate showed a suitable appearance, droplet size, polydisperse index, zeta potential, pH, and viscosity. This formulation demonstrated desirable physical and chemical stability, with non-cytotoxic effects.

Conclusion: DKME is considered a promising anti-aging product. However, an in vivo study of this optimized formulation might be evaluated in further study for anti-aging purposes.

Keywords: reactive oxygen species, anti-aging activities, Dendrobium kentrophyllum, microemulsion

Magdalena Wójciak 1,* , Piotr Drozdowski 2,* , Agnieszka Skalska-Kami ´nska 1 , Martyna Zagórska-Dziok 3 , Aleksandra Ziemlewska 3 , Zofia Nizioł-Łukaszewska 3 and Małgorzata Latalska 4

1 Department of Analytical Chemistry, Medical University of Lublin, Chod´zki 4a, 20-093 Lublin, Poland; 该Email地址已收到反垃圾邮件插件保护。要显示它您需要在浏览器中启用JavaScript。

2 Department of Plastic Surgery, Specialist Medical Centre, 57-320 Polanica-Zdrój, Poland

3 Department of Technology of Cosmetic and Pharmaceutical Products, Medical College, University of Information Technology and Management in Rzeszow, Sucharskiego 2, 35-225 Rzeszow, Poland; 该Email地址已收到反垃圾邮件插件保护。要显示它您需要在浏览器中启用JavaScript。 (M.Z.-D.); 该Email地址已收到反垃圾邮件插件保护。要显示它您需要在浏览器中启用JavaScript。 (A.Z.); 该Email地址已收到反垃圾邮件插件保护。要显示它您需要在浏览器中启用JavaScript。 (Z.N.-Ł.)

4 Department of General and Pediatric Ophthalmology, Medical University of Lublin, 20-079 Lublin, Poland; 该Email地址已收到反垃圾邮件插件保护。要显示它您需要在浏览器中启用JavaScript。

* Correspondence: 该Email地址已收到反垃圾邮件插件保护。要显示它您需要在浏览器中启用JavaScript。 (M.W.); 该Email地址已收到反垃圾邮件插件保护。要显示它您需要在浏览器中启用JavaScript。 (P.D.)

Citation: Wójciak, M.; Drozdowski, P.; Skalska-Kami ´nska, A.; Zagórska Dziok, M.; Ziemlewska, A.; Nizioł- Łukaszewska, Z.; Latalska, M. Protective, Anti-Inflammatory, and Anti-Aging Effects of Soy Isoflavones on Skin Cells: An Overview of In Vitro and In Vivo Studies. Molecules 2024, 29, 5790. https://doi.org/10.3390/ molecules29235790

Academic Editors: José Basilio Heredia, Luis Angel CabanillasBojórquez and Marilyn

Shomara Criollo-Mendoza

Received: 1 November 2024

Revised: 1 December 2024

Accepted: 5 December 2024

Published: 7 December 2024

Abstract: Isoflavones are found in numerous plant species within the Leguminosae family; however, soy isoflavones are particularly significant in practice and have been extensively studied in recent years. The health-promoting potential of orally administered soy isoflavones is widely documented in the scientific literature, and many review articles have been developed to highlight their significance. However, it should be noted that soy-isoflavone-rich extracts and isolated soy isoflavones, such as genistein and daidzein, are also often applied topically as ingredients in many formulations, including face creams, tonics, and emulsions. New delivery systems are continuously being developed to enhance the skin permeability of isoflavones, thus improving their efficacy. In this context, their direct activity on skin cells is an important aspect of scientific research. The anti-inflammatory, protective, and antioxidant properties of isoflavones and soy extracts make them promising cosmetic ingredients with anti-aging potential because inflammation and the accumulation of reactive oxygen species (ROS) can lead to structural and functional changes in skin cells, accelerating the aging process. This review provides an overview of research on the impact of the application of soy isoflavone extract and soy-derived isoflavones on skin cells, with a focus on the documented molecular mechanisms underlying their effects. This study aims to offer essential insights to aid in the development of functional cosmetics and future clinical applications.

Keywords: phytoestrogens; topical application; genistein; daidzein; fibroblasts; keratinocytes; skin

Minseo Kang 1,† , Somin Park 2,†, So-Ri Son 2 , Yedam Noh 2 , Dae Sik Jang 2,* and Sullim Lee 1,*

1 Department of Life Science, College of Bio-Nano Technology, Gachon University, Seongnam 13120, Republic of Korea; 该Email地址已收到反垃圾邮件插件保护。要显示它您需要在浏览器中启用JavaScript。

2 Department of Biomedical and Pharmaceutical Sciences, Graduate School, Kyung Hee University, Seoul 02447, Republic of Korea; 该Email地址已收到反垃圾邮件插件保护。要显示它您需要在浏览器中启用JavaScript。 (S.P.); 该Email地址已收到反垃圾邮件插件保护。要显示它您需要在浏览器中启用JavaScript。 (S.-R.S.); 该Email地址已收到反垃圾邮件插件保护。要显示它您需要在浏览器中启用JavaScript。 (Y.N.)

* Correspondence: 该Email地址已收到反垃圾邮件插件保护。要显示它您需要在浏览器中启用JavaScript。 (D.S.J.); 该Email地址已收到反垃圾邮件插件保护。要显示它您需要在浏览器中启用JavaScript。 (S.L.)

† These authors equally contributed to this work.

Abstract: Panax ginseng (Korean ginseng) is renowned for its health-promoting properties, attributed to its bioactive compounds, including saponins, polyphenols, and polysaccharides, which possess both antioxidant and anti-aging activities. This study investigated the anti-aging and antiinflammatory effects of compounds isolated from the hot water extract of fresh P. ginseng roots, evaluating their resistance to TNF-α/IFN-γ-induced skin cell damage. Among 14 compounds, ginsenoside Rf (compound 2) showed significant multi-target effects. In NHDFs, ginsenoside Rf and others effectively reduced intracellular ROS, demonstrating strong antioxidant properties. Additionally, they inhibited MMP-1 expression, a key enzyme in collagen degradation, and promoted pro-collagen Type I synthesis, countering the negative effects of TNF-α and supporting skin health. Further analysis showed that ginsenoside Rf reduced the secretion of inflammatory cytokines like IL-1β and IL-6, exhibiting anti-inflammatory effects. It also promoted the expression of crucial skin barrier proteins, including LOR, AQP3, FLG, and KRT1 in TNF-α/IFN-γ-stimulated NHEKs, enhancing skin hydration and structural integrity. These results suggest that compounds from P. ginseng roots, especially ginsenoside Rf, hold promise as skincare agents targeting skin aging and inflammation. Future research should further explore their mechanisms and optimize their applications in dermatological treatments.

Keywords: ginsenoside Rf; P. ginseng; anti-aging; anti-inflammatory; ROS; MMP-1; skin barrier; TNF-α/IFN-γ

Citation: Kang, M.; Park, S.; Son, S.-R.; Noh, Y.; Jang, D.S.; Lee, S. Anti-Aging and Anti-Inflammatory Effects of Compounds from Fresh Panax ginseng Roots: A Study on TNF-α/IFN-γ- Induced Skin Cell Damage. Molecules 2024, 29, 5479. https://doi.org/ 10.3390/molecules29225479

Academic Editor: Enrique

Barrajón-Catalán

Received: 24 October 2024

Revised: 15 November 2024

Accepted: 18 November 2024

Published: 20 November 2024

Rui Dias-Costa 1,* , Concepción Medrano-Padial 2 , Raquel Fernandes 1 , Raúl Domínguez-Perles 2 , Irene Gouvinhas 1 and Ana Novo Barros 1,*

1 Centre for the Research and Technology of Agro-Environmental and Biological Sciences (CITAB), Institute for Innovation, Capacity Building and Sustainability of Agri-Food Production (Inov4Agro), University of Trás-os-Montes e Alto Douro, Quinta de Prados, 5000-801 Vila Real, Portugal; 该Email地址已收到反垃圾邮件插件保护。要显示它您需要在浏览器中启用JavaScript。 (R.F.); 该Email地址已收到反垃圾邮件插件保护。要显示它您需要在浏览器中启用JavaScript。 (I.G.)

2 Laboratorio de Fitoquímica y Alimentos Saludables (LabFAS), Centro de Edafología y Biología Aplicada del Segura-Spanish Council for Scientific Research (EBAS-CSIC), University Campus of Espinardo 25, 30100 Murcia, Spain; 该Email地址已收到反垃圾邮件插件保护。要显示它您需要在浏览器中启用JavaScript。 (C.M.-P.); 该Email地址已收到反垃圾邮件插件保护。要显示它您需要在浏览器中启用JavaScript。 (R.D.-P.)

* Correspondence: 该Email地址已收到反垃圾邮件插件保护。要显示它您需要在浏览器中启用JavaScript。 (R.D.-C.); 该Email地址已收到反垃圾邮件插件保护。要显示它您需要在浏览器中启用JavaScript。 (A.N.B.)

Citation: Dias-Costa, R.; MedranoPadial, C.; Fernandes, R.; DomínguezPerles, R.; Gouvinhas, I.; Barros, A.N. Valorisation of Winery By-Products: Revealing the Polyphenolic Profile of Grape Stems and Their Inhibitory Effects on Skin Aging-Enzymes for Cosmetic and Pharmaceutical Applications. Molecules 2024, 29, 5437.

https://doi.org/10.3390/molecules 29225437

Academic Editor: Michael Jourdes

Received: 17 October 2024

Revised: 9 November 2024

Accepted: 15 November 2024

Published: 18 November 2024

Copyright: © 2024 by the authors.

Licensee MDPI, Basel, Switzerland.

This article is an open access article distributed under the terms and conditions of the Creative Commons Attribution (CC BY) license (https:// creativecommons.org/licenses/by/ 4.0/).

Abstract: Grape (Vitis vinifera L.) stems, a by-product of winemaking, possess significant potential value due to their rich polyphenolic composition, which allows their exploitation for cosmetic and pharmaceutical applications. This presents a promising opportunity for valorisation aimed at developing innovative products with potential health-promoting effects. In this study, the polyphenolic profile of extracts from grape stems of seven white grape varieties was determined using spectrophotometric and chromatographic methods, specifically high-performance liquid chromatography coupled with a photodiode array detector and electrospray ionization multi-stage mass spectrometry (HPLCPDA-ESI-MSn), as well as on their ferric-reducing antioxidant power (FRAP) and radical scavenging capacity, using 2,2-diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH• ) and 2,2′ -azino-bis(3-ethylbenzothiazoline-6- sulfonic acid (ABTS•+ ) radicals. This study also evaluated the anti-aging activity and skin depigmenting activity of these extracts. These findings revealed a diverse polyphenolic profile, encompassing proanthocyanidins and catechin derivatives (PCDs), phenolic acids, and flavonols. Among the varieties studied, ‘Códega do Larinho’ exhibited the highest concentrations of six distinct polyphenols and the highest total phenolic content. It also demonstrated the highest results for antioxidant capacity and elastase and tyrosinase inhibition. Pearson’s correlation analysis showed a significant positive correlation between certain PCDs with both FRAP and DPPH assays, as well as between the identified flavonols and anti-elastase activity. These results underscore the potential health benefits of grape stem extracts and emphasize the importance of their polyphenolic composition in enhancing antioxidant and anti-aging properties, thus supporting their application in different industries.

Keywords: grape stems; polyphenolic profile; antioxidant capacity; anti-aging; valorisation