Xinjue Kuang1,2, Caini Lin1,2, Yuanyuan Fu3, YuhuiWang3, JunhuaGong3, Yong Chen3,4, Youting Liu3,4,6 & FanYi1,2,5

1 Key Laboratory of Cosmetic, China National Light Industry, Beijing Technology and Business University, Beijing,China.

2Institute of Cosmetic Regulatory Science, Beijing Technology and Business University, Beijing, China.

3 Beijing Uproven Medical Technology Co. LTD, Beijing, China.

4 Beijing Uproven Institute of Dermatology, Beijing,China.

5 Beijing Technology and Business University, No.11/33, Fucheng Road, Haidian District, Beijing 100048,China.

6 Beijing Uproven Institute of Dermatology, Room 1109, 11th Floor, Building 13, No. 5 Tianhua Street, Daxing District, Beijing 102600, China. email: 该Email地址已收到反垃圾邮件插件保护。要显示它您需要在浏览器中启用JavaScript。; 该Email地址已收到反垃圾邮件插件保护。要显示它您需要在浏览器中启用JavaScript。

Oily sensitive skin is complex and requires accurate identification and personalized care. However, the current classification method relies on subjective assessment. This study aimed to classify skin type and subtype using objective biophysical parameters to investigate differences in skin characteristics across anatomical and morphological regions. This study involved 200 Chinese women aged 17–34 years. Noninvasive capture of biophysical measures and image analysis yielded 104 parameters. Key classification parameters were identified through mechanisms and characteristics, with thresholds set via statistical methods. This study identified the optimal ternary value classification method for dividing skin types into dry, neutral, and oily types based on tertiles of biophysical parameters and, further, into barrier-sensitive, neurosensitive, and inflammatory-sensitive types. Oily sensitive skin shows increased sebum, follicular orifices, redness, dullness, wrinkles, and porphyrins, along with a tendency for oiliness and early acne. Subtypes exhibited specific characteristics: barrier-sensitive skin was rough with a high pH and prone to acne; neurosensitive skin had increased TEWL (Transepidermal Water Loss) and sensitivity; and inflammatory-sensitive skin exhibited a darker tone, with low elasticity and uneven redness. This study established an objective classification system for skin types and subtypes using noninvasive parameters, clarifying the need for care for oily sensitive skin and supporting personalized skincare.

Keywords Oily sensitive skin, Noninvasive biophysical testing, Skin classification, Sensitivity subtypes, Personalized skincare

Patrick Bogdanowicz 1,4*, Paul Bensadoun 2,4, Maïté Noizet 1 , Benoît Béganton 1 ,Armony Philippe 1 , SandrineAlvarez‑Georges 1 , Gautier Doat 3 , AmélieTourette 1 ,Sandrine Bessou‑Touya 1 , Jean‑Marc Lemaitre 2*& Hélène Duplan 1

1 R&D Pierre Fabre Dermo-Cosmétique & Personal Care, Toulouse, France. 2 INSERM IRMB UMR1183, Hôpital Saint Eloi, Université de Montpellier, Montpellier, France. 3 Laboratoires Dermatologiques Avène, Lavaur, France. 4These authors contributed equally: Patrick Bogdanowicz and Paul Bensadoun.*

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Intrinsic and extrinsic factors, including lifestyle and sun exposure, can contribute to cell senescence, which impairs skin homeostasis, that may in turn lead to skin aging. Senescent cells have a specifc secretome, called the senescence-associated secretory phenotype (SASP) that includes MMPs, CXCLs and S100A8/9. Reducing the SASP with senotherapeutics is a promising strategy to reduce skin aging. Here we evaluated the effect of a formula containing niacinamide and hyaluronic acid, which are known to limit senescence and skin aging. We conducted three diferent studies. (1) Ex vivo explants treated with the formula had more collagen and glycosaminoglycan. (2) In a clinical trial with forty-four women, two months of treatment improved fne lines, wrinkles, luminosity, smoothness, homogeneity, and plumpness. (3) In a third study on thirty women, we treated one arm for two months and took skin biopsies to study gene expression. 101 mRNAs and 13 miRNAs were differentially expressed. We observed a likely senomorphic effect, as there was a decrease in many SASP genes including MMP12 and CXCL9 and a significant downregulation of autocrine signaling genes: S100A8 and S100A9. These pharmaco-clinical results are the first to demonstrate the senomorphic properties of an effective anti-aging formula in skin.

This article is excerpted from the ACS Cent. Sci. 2024, 10, 1976−1979 by Wound World.