Sang Gyu Lee 1 , Ngoc Ha Nguyen 2 , Young In Lee 1,3 , Inhee Jung 4 , In Ah Kim 4 , Hyunsook Jang 5 , Hoyeon Shin 5 and Ju Hee Lee 1,3,*

1 Department of Dermatology & Cutaneous Biology Research Institute, Yonsei University College of Medicine, Seoul 03722, Republic of Korea; 该Email地址已收到反垃圾邮件插件保护。要显示它您需要在浏览器中启用JavaScript。 (S.G.L.); 该Email地址已收到反垃圾邮件插件保护。要显示它您需要在浏览器中启用JavaScript。 (Y.I.L.)

2 Department of Dermatology, University of Medicine and Pharmacy, Ho Chi Minh City 17000, Vietnam; 该Email地址已收到反垃圾邮件插件保护。要显示它您需要在浏览器中启用JavaScript。

3 Scar Laser and Plastic Surgery Center, Yonsei Cancer Hospital, Seoul 03722, Republic of Korea

4 Global Medical Research Center Co., Ltd., Seoul 06526, Republic of Korea; 该Email地址已收到反垃圾邮件插件保护。要显示它您需要在浏览器中启用JavaScript。 (I.J.); 该Email地址已收到反垃圾邮件插件保护。要显示它您需要在浏览器中启用JavaScript。 (I.A.K.)

5 Lotte R&D Center, Seoul 07594, Republic of Korea; 该Email地址已收到反垃圾邮件插件保护。要显示它您需要在浏览器中启用JavaScript。 (H.J.); 该Email地址已收到反垃圾邮件插件保护。要显示它您需要在浏览器中启用JavaScript。 (H.S.)

* Correspondence: 该Email地址已收到反垃圾邮件插件保护。要显示它您需要在浏览器中启用JavaScript。; Tel.: +82-2-2228-2080; Fax: +82-2-393-6947

Abstract: Skin aging is driven by a combination of internal and external mechanisms, with ultraviolet (UV) radiation being a prominent external factor contributing to photoaging. Photoaging manifests through several signs, including decreased skin hydration, diminished elasticity, coarse wrinkles, and dyspigmentation. Cacao beans, known for their flavonoids and polyphenols, offer potential anti-aging benefits. To explore this, we conducted a study using both in vitro experiments and clinical trials. Our results demonstrated that cacao powder significantly improved skin hydration and moisture retention in both experimental settings. Specifically, in UVB-damaged human dermal fibroblasts (HDFs) and H2O2 -treated keratinocytes (KCs), cacao powder displayed notable antioxidant properties. Furthermore, cacao powder enhanced the activity of antioxidant enzymes and promoted the production of hyaluronic acid in KCs, contributing to better skin hydration. It also effectively inhibited the expression of matrix metalloproteinase-1, an enzyme associated with wrinkle formation, and stimulated collagen synthesis in HDFs. Clinical trials conducted on participants with aged skin revealed a significant improvement in skin hydration and a reduction in skin wrinkles after 12 weeks of cacao powder consumption, supporting the in vitro findings. These results suggest that cacao powder holds promise as a natural ingredient for improving skin hydration and reducing wrinkles, underscoring its potential in anti-aging skincare.

Keywords: cacao powder; skin moisture; skin senescence; wrinkles

Citation: Lee, S.G.; Nguyen, N.H.; Lee, Y.I.; Jung, I.; Kim, I.A.; Jang, H.; Shin, H.; Lee, J.H. The Role of Cacao Powder in Enhancing Skin Moisture and Reducing Wrinkles: A 12-Week Clinical Trial and In Vitro Study. Curr. Issues Mol. Biol. 2024, 46, 12574–12587.

https://doi.org/10.3390/ cimb46110746

Academic Editor: Madhav Bhatia

Received: 29 September 2024

Revised: 2 November 2024

Accepted: 4 November 2024

Published: 6 November 2024

Copyright: © 2024 by the authors. Licensee MDPI, Basel, Switzerland. This article is an open access article distributed under the terms and conditions of the Creative Commons Attribution (CC BY) license (https:// creativecommons.org/licenses/by/ 4.0/).

Mona Sadat Mirtaleb1,2, Mahvash Khodabandeh Shahraky1, Abdolkhaleg Deezagi3 & Danial Shafiee1

1 Department of Bioprocess Engineering, National Institute of Genetic Engineering and Biotechnology (NIGEB), Tehran, Iran.

2 Department of Microbial Biotechnology, School of Biology, College of Science, University of Tehran, Tehran, Iran. 3Department of Molecular Medicine, National Institute of Genetic Engineering and Biotechnology

(NIGEB), Tehran, Iran. email: 该Email地址已收到反垃圾邮件插件保护。要显示它您需要在浏览器中启用JavaScript。

With the advancement of biotechnology in the marine industry, an increasing utilization of marine ingredients in skincare products has been observed in recent years. Encapsulating Artemia franciscana extract and its derivatives in a novel phospholipid vesicle called hyalurosome presents innovative strategies for drug delivery systems and anti-aging products. In this study, we developed nano hyalurosomes containing Artemia franciscana active components. Partially purification of proteins in the Artemia franciscana extract was performed using ion exchange chromatography, specifically targeting Hsp40 and Artemin. The physicochemical properties of the hyalurosomes were characterized, revealing nanoparticle sizes ranging from 100 to 130 nm, zeta potential between −57 and −41.2 mV. The biological compatibility of the fabricated hyalurosomes was tested in vitro on mice fibroblast cells. Results indicated that formulations containing hyalurosomes exhibited no cytotoxicity. In-vivo studies employing H&E and Mason’s trichrome staining demonstrated an increase in the dermal layer of the skin on male mice and collagen production following treatment with different formulations containing hyalurosomes. Therefore, these formulations are considered promising candidates for anti-aging effects. Stability study at 4 °C for 60 days validated by FE-SEM imaging. In conclusion, hyalurosomes fabricated with Artemia franciscana extract and its diverse active molecules successfully achieved enhanced loading and penetration into the deeper layers of the skin, and it can be a suitable candidate for the treatment of skin aging and rejuvenation.

Keywords Nano drug delivery, Hyalurosome, Marine biotechnology, Artemia franciscana, Skin regeneration

Jesus Olivero‑Verbel1  · Patricia Quintero‑Rincón2,3 · Karina Caballero‑Gallardo1,2

Received: 25 June 2024 / Accepted: 9 October 2024 / Published online: 5 November 2024

© The Author(s) 2024

Abstract

Main conclusion This review highlights the potential of aromatic plants as natural antioxidants in cosmeceuticals to combat skin aging and promote health and rejuvenation.

Abstract Aromatic plant extracts, essential oils, or their phytoconstituents have a long history of use in skincare, dating back centuries. Currently, these plant-based sources are extensively researched and utilized in the cosmeceutical industry to formulate products that enhance skin health and promote a youthful appearance. These plants’ diverse bioactivities and sensory properties make them ideal ingredients for developing anti-aging agents recommended for maintaining healthy skin through self-care routines, offering a natural alternative to synthetic products. Reactive oxygen species (ROS) accumulation in the dermis, attributed to intrinsic and extrinsic aging factors, particularly prolonged sun exposure, is identified as the primary cause of skin aging. Plant extracts enriched with antioxidant compounds including favonoids, phenolics, tannins, stilbenes, terpenes, and steroids, are fundamental to counteract ROS-induced oxidative stress. Noteworthy effects observed from the use of these natural sources include photoprotective, senolytic, anti-infammatory, anti-wrinkle, anti-acne, and antityrosinase activities, encompassing benefits like photoprotection, wound healing, skin whitening, anti-pigmentation, tissue regeneration, among others. This review highlights several globally distributed aromatic plant species renowned for their benefits for skin, including Foeniculum vulgare Mill. (Apiaceae), Calendula ofcinalis L. and Matricaria chamomilla L. (Asteraceae), Thymus vulgaris L. (Lamiaceae), Litsea cubeba (Lour.) Pers. (Lauraceae), Althaea ofcinalis L. (Malvaceae), Malaleuca alternifolia (Maiden y Betche) Cheel (Myrtaceae), Cymbopogon citratus (DC.) Stapf (Poaceae), Rubus idaeus L. (Rosaceae), and Citrus sinensis L. Osbeck (Rutaceae), emphasizing their potential in skincare formulations and their role in promoting health and rejuvenation.

Keywords Cosmeceutical · Bioactive compounds · Antioxidants · Anti-aging · Antiphotoaging · Aromatic plants

Marta Arnal‑Forné1  · Tamara Molina‑García2  · María Ortega2  · Víctor Marcos‑Garcés2,3 · Pilar Molina4  · Antonio Ferrández‑Izquierdo1,2,5 · Pilar Sepulveda1,6,7 · Vicente Bodí2,3,6,8 · César Ríos‑Navarro1,2,6 · Amparo Ruiz‑Saurí1,2,6

César Ríos-Navarro

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* Amparo Ruiz-Saurí

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1 Department of Pathology, University of Valencia, Avda. Blasco Ibáñez 15. 46010, Valencia, Spain

2 Instituto de Investigación Sanitaria INCLIVA Biomedical Research Institute, Avda. Menéndez Pelayo 4acc, 46010 Valencia, Spain

3 Cardiology Department, Hospital Clínico Universitario, Valencia, Spain

4 Department of Pathology, Instituto de Medicina Legal y Ciencias Forenses, Valencia, Spain

5 Anatomic Pathology Department, Hospital Clínico Universitario, Valencia, Spain

6 Centro de Investigación Biomédica en Red (CIBER)-CV, Madrid, Spain

7 Regenerative Medicine and Heart Transplantation Unit, Instituto de Investigación Sanitaria La Fe, Valencia, Spain

8 Department of Medicine, University of Valencia, Valencia, Spain

Accepted: 10 June 2024 / Published online: 2 July 2024 © The Author(s) 2024

Abstract

Skin represents the main barrier against the external environment, but also plays a role in human relations, as one of the prime determinants of beauty, resulting in a high consumer demand for skincare-related pharmaceutical products. Given the importance of skin aging in both medical and social spheres, the present research aims to characterize microscopic changes in human skin composition due to intrinsic aging (as opposed to aging infuenced by external factors) via histological analysis of a photoprotected body region. Samples from 25 autopsies were taken from the periumbilical area and classifed into four age groups: group 1 (0–12 years), group 2 (13–25 years), group 3 (26–54 years), and group 4 (≥55 years). Diferent traditional histological (hematoxylin–eosin, Masson’s trichrome, orcein, toluidine, Alcian blue, and Feulgen reaction) and immunohistochemical (CK20, CD1a, Ki67, and CD31) stains were performed. A total of 1879 images photographed with a Leica DM3000 optical microscope were morphometrically analyzed using Image ProPlus 7.0 for further statistical analysis with GraphPad 9.0. Our results showed a reduction in epidermis thickness, interdigitation and mitotic indexes, while melanocyte count was raised. Papillary but not reticular dermis showed increased thickness with aging. Specifcally, in the papillary layer mast cells and glycosaminoglycans were expanded, whereas the reticular dermis displayed a diminution in glycosaminoglycans and elastic fbers. Moreover, total cellularity and vascularization of both dermises were diminished with aging. This morphometric analysis of photoprotected areas reveals that intrinsic aging signifcantly infuences human skin composition. This study paves the way for further research into the molecular basis underpinning these alterations, and into potential antiaging strategies.

Keywords Skin aging · Intrinsic aging · Morphometric analysis · Human biopsies